The Truth About How To Layer Skincare Acids To Get Maximum Results In 3 Minutes
Whether you're assembling a rainbow cake, styling an outfit, or putting together a skin-care routine, proper layering is critical.
And in the case of skincare, layering the right way can make all the difference when it comes to getting the most out of your products.
How To Layer Skincare Acids To Get Maximum Result
The typical K-beauty routine involves layering your products like so: oil-based cleanser, water-based cleanser, exfoliator, toner, essence, serum, sheet mask, eye cream, moisturizer, and SPF.
As important as simply using each product is applying each one in its proper order aka layering.
The idea is that for products to absorb most effectively, active ingredients go on earlier in the regimen, then you seal it all in with richer formulas.
In essence, they act as chemical exfoliates, sloughing away dead skin cells to produce a brighter, smoother complexion. They can be extremely beneficial for treating acne, pigmentation, uneven skin tone, and for improving fine lines and wrinkles.
Especially as there are so many. “The two most common types found in skincare products are alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) which both work as exfoliants but in different ways.
“AHAs, like glycolic acid, are water-soluble and this is convenient since our skin is composed largely of water molecules. They work by breaking down and eliminating dead skin cells on the outer layer of skin to expose brighter, fresher skin. AHAs also help promote collagen production.”
11 Cosmetic Brand's Products Worth To Use For Daily BHAs, like salicylic acid, are oil-soluble, which gives them the ability to penetrate deeper into pores to unclog them and help clear breakouts.
BHAs are also anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial which is beneficial for certain skin complaints like acne. It is so easy to implement these ingredients into your daily skincare routine, especially since many of the top skincare brands are incorporating these into their best products.
5 Essential Oil Everyone Can Use Every Day Unfortunately, as acids are highly effective active ingredients, it can be easy to get excited by the results and overdo it.
Which Skin Types Are Best Suited AHAS?
“AHAs are effective for skin that is suffering from dryness, flakiness, or dullness. Once dead cells are removed by AHAs, like glycolic acid, any moisturizing products applied on top can penetrate the skin more easily so they can help enhance the effects of your other skincare products.
They are also very helpful for targeting signs of aging, such as fine lines and early wrinkles.
10 Best Korean-Beauty Skin Care on Amazon “AHAs are well tolerated on most skin types but if you suffer from very sensitive skin you should seek the advice of your cosmetic doctor or dermatologist before using them.
For more sensitive skin or people new to AHAs, I suggest the use of lactic acid, which is a more gentle AHA that results in a milder exfoliation.
Individuals with dark skin can occasionally react to AHAs with a paradoxical darkening of their skin so in these cases, AHAs should be used with caution and on medical advice.”
Which Skin Types Are Best Suited To BHAs?
“BHAs, like salicylic acid, penetrate much deeper into pores, loosening the dead skin cells and alleviating clogged bores. They can help break down pimples and blackheads.
Body Shop: 10 Best Products From Body Shop of 2021 This makes them well suited for oily skin and acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties so it can be very effective at calming inflamed and red skin and brightening the complexion.
“Individuals with an allergy to aspirin should avoid salicylic acid since they are in the same family of compounds. To ensure potency on your skin, I recommend using a topical salicylic acid of at least 2% strength.”
Can You Use An Aha Or A Bha Together?
“It is indeed safe to use AHAs and BHAs together. They target different actions (as discussed above) so they have different benefits. In essence, BHAs disrupt the connections between dead cells whilst AHAs cause dead cells to detach and slough away. In this way, they can work well together, synergistically.
“It could be argued that if you use an effective BHA, then an AHA is not necessary since BHAs are more potent and penetrate deeper. It is really important to note that when using topical acids on the skin, an SPF of at least 30 afterward is essential, even in winter and in cold weather.”
Which Acids Can You Use Together?
“This depends on your age and your skin type and any particular skin complaints you may have. I recommend advising on combining acids based on age.
“AHAs and BHAs can certainly be combined. For example, for oily skin, a salicylic-based cleanser can be used followed by a glycolic acid toner.
Generally, glycolic acid is great for dry, dehydrated, or combination skin, whereas salicylic acid would be perfect for oily/spot-prone/acne skin.
“L-Ascorbic acid (also known as vitamin C), should not be applied immediately after using topical AHAs or BHAs as this can cause skin irritation and redness. So if you are using a vitamin C product, perhaps apply it later in the day or use these products on different days.
“For those under the age of 20, it is not recommended to use topical acids without being under the supervision of a doctor and unless prescribed by your GP or dermatologist.”
applying your AHA and BHA at different times of the day. I suggest using your BHA in the morning and your AHA at night. Alternatively, they could be used on alternate nights.
“If you want to apply them at the same time, BHAs should be applied to oilier areas such as the T-zone and AHAs everywhere else to avoid doubling up on the application on any section of skin. The acids can of course be layered over each other, but this increases the risk of irritation and dryness.
“AHAs and BHAs are close in pH (both are between 3.0 and 4.0), so this is not a determining factor in the application. However, if you are using them together, the golden rule for skincare applies, always apply the thinnest product first, and the thicker product on top.”
What Happens To Your Skin If You Irritate It?
“Topical acids should never be overused. As these products are becoming more and more popular I have noticed that some patients are over-exfoliating; using too much and too frequently. The signs of overuse include irritation, burning, or peeling; redness and inflammation; or wax-like skin texture.
“You should always check the ingredients in the rest of your skincare routine, especially retinol and antioxidants like vitamin C, which should be avoided immediately after topical acids. It is always best to allow your skin to completely absorb one ingredient at a time to reduce the risk of over stimulation and any adverse reactions.”
How should you layer acids to get maximum results?
1) Application of AHAs and BHAs
Those with acne-prone, oily skin is recommended to combine these two acids. You can apply them at different times of the day. However, if you want to use them together apply BHAs to the oilier areas and AHAs to the rest of the face to avoid overlapping.
You can layer the two by applying the thinnest layer first but this can increase the risk of irritation. Start by applying BHAs as they are oil-soluble, with a lower pH level, and then use AHAs.
2) Apply Niacinamide and Acids in the right order to balance the pH levels
Niacinamide is also known as vitamin B3. It is water-soluble and retains moisture. It helps to reduce the appearance of pores, treat uneven skin tone and reduce fine lines. Acids typically have a pH between 3.0 and 4.0, while niacinamide is around 5.0 to 7.0.
When you mix them, the niacinamide will raise the pH of the acid causing redness. To avoid any reaction, you can apply them 30 minutes apart. When layering these products, always use the lowest pH to the highest, starting with acid straight after cleansing.
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